Friday, 16 December 2016

1960s/70s Shetland (and some of their boats)

When I was very young, my grandfather handed me his 35mm Nikon camera and let me take a photo of him standing on his front walkway, a photo that I still have somewhere, and an occasion that I still recall ever so slightly. I still possess and occasionally use the camera with which I made my first ever photograph, and I assume that I inherit my interest in photography from my grandfather. He amassed a large collection of trays full of slides (and has his own dedicated projector room where he used to show them to us), of which I have attempted to scan as many as I can over the years. I will occasionally show some of those images here, when it suits me to do so. 

One of the most recent trays to be scanned contained images of Shetland, a group of islands north of Scotland. My grandmother was born there, and my grandparents went back there several times. I am not able to be certain on the dates of all the slides in the post, but one trip was in 1961 (thgouh the visit of HMY BRITANNIA in some of the photos may coincide with a 1960 visit - hard to tell). The second batch of slides near the bottom was probably taken in the mid- to late- 1970s. Most of the images below were taken in Lerwick, the capital.

I should note up front that I am far from an expert on all things Shetland, and I am frequently referring to Wikipedia and other internet resources for the contents of this post, and I probably still have things wrong. (Corrections always welcome, of course).

What I am assuming is a view from above Lerwick, with the island of Bressay in the background.
My great-aunt remained in Shetland, and lived in Lerwick. While my grandparents went back many times, I only made the trip once when I was 13 - we returned to spread my grandmother's ashes in the town of her birth, Walls (or, more properly, Waas). I do not remember much of that trip, but what I do remember is of Walls and Lerwick.

Lerwick.
Of great interest to me, of course, are the boats of Shetland. From what I can gather, traditional boats from Shetland have their roots in Scandinavia, and are clinker built. One of the larger types, not built since the 1880s, was the Sixareen (alternatively known as the Sixern, and apparently Sixaerin).

This sketch was in my grandfather's possession. It dates from 1933, and has seen better days. It is credited to "By Permission of A Johnson", but I don't know who actually drew it up.
These double-enders were square rigged, carried 6 oars (hence the name), and could fish farther offshore than the smaller Yoal. The boats that were numerous in Shetland when my grandfather visited were smaller "Shetland sailing skiffs" (hopefully I have the name right), which when rigged for sailing carried a fore-and-aft rig. They appear to have been used entirely for recreation at that time.

A Shetland sailing skiff. So many of my grandfather's slides have faded over the years, but this one doesn't suffer from that problem. The house just over the mast of the boat is the Church of Scotland manse in Walls (Waas), where my grandmother was brought up.
The Church of Scotland manse in Walls (Waas) with a Shetland sailing skiff moored in front of the house. We spread my grandmother's ashes in front of this house in 1987. The island on the left horizon is Vaila, for which my grandmother was named. Family legend has it that my great-grandfather wanted to name his other daughters after two other islands visible from the house, Linga (left middle ground) and Foula (further offshore to the right), to which my great-grandmother put her foot down. Photographer unknown.
At the time, the older style of wooden fishing boat in the background of the next image were also still common.

Somewhat traditional Shetland skiffs in the foreground with a then-common style of fishing boat in the background.



There was an active racing fleet of Shetland sailing skiffs in Lerwick in those days (and there may still be for all I know).

A line of Shetland sailing skiffs racing to windward. This photo may have been taken as early as 1954, and one of the boats may have belonged to a family member.
I wonder if the "L" on the sails in the above image stands for "Lerwick", in which case I suspect the "S" on the sails in the image below may stand for "Scalloway" which is located to the west of Lerwick. My conclusion here may be highly suspect, of course.

Shetland sailing skiffs. I have to think that it is a race day with the number of boats ready to go.

Shetland sailing skiff.

Shetland sailing skiff.

I'm not sure what this boat is for, but assume it is some sort of fishing boat.
The next photo helps to date these slides to the 1960-1977 period, during which the ferry from Aberdeen to Lerwick was the St. Clair (3). She was 3303 tons and 296 feet, and could carry 314 passengers.

From 1960-1977, the ferry from Aberdeen to Lerwick was the St. Clair (3).

Fishing boat on what I assume to be the Lerwick waterfront.

Collection of small boats in front of an unidentified ship.

Tug Atlantic.
Took me a while, but I was able to figure out that this was the tug Atlantic built for Bugsier Reederei-und Bergungs A.G. of Hamburg, Germany. You would think it would have been easy, but narrowing down vessels named "Atlantic" isn't easy when you aren't sure whether it was the name of the tug or the towing company. She worked as a tug until 1988, after which she was laid up and eventually converted to a yacht. There is more information about the vessel here (you need to scroll down a bit). Mac Mackay covered a fleet-mate, Oceanic, on his Tugfax blog.

Some years later, in 1967 or so, my grandfather caught another sister tug Simson in Halifax towing an oil rig.

Tug Simson (left) towing an oil rig in Halifax Harbour.

Scanned backwards, of course, and I uploaded before I noticed.

Several of the older wooden fishing boats rafted together.


Lerwick waterfront.
This does not necessarily date the following two photos, but HMY BRITANNIA made a visit to Shetland in 1960.

HMY BRITANNIA in Lerwick.

HMY BRITANNIA in Lerwick.


Even in ~1960, more modern steel fishing boats were displacing the older wooden fishing boats.


Newer steel fishing boats.

Older wooden fishing boats hauled up and being dismantled.

Fishing boats.

The view from my great-aunt's house: a snowy Lerwick, with a tug of some sort in the background.

My mother believes this image is of a fair in Cunningsburgh, some way south of Lerwick.
In February, the locals hold a fire festival called Up Helly Aa. Each year, a replica of a Viking galley (like the one below) is burned at night as part of the celebration. The photos below may actually have been taken by my grandmother, on a separate trip.

Viking galley replica to be burned during Up Hely Aa.

Up Helly Aa.

Up Helly Aa. The dragon head of the galley seems to appear to the right of the red cloud, so it probably hasn't been put to the torch just yet.
I started out shooting negative film, and grew accustomed to the 2x3 ratio image of the 35mm format that is replicated by my camera gear today. While scanning my grandfather's slides, I see a variety of image formats, including the square format of the images above. Fast forward to the 1970s and another trip back to Shetland, and he appears to have changed to a 35mm slide format. Shetland had changed somewhat as well. By this time, he would have been using the old Nikon that I still use occasionally.

Commercial Street in downtown Lerwick. The building with the columns in the background is now the Bank of Scotland. Google Streetview once again proves its worth.

I have to think the second "Goodlad" is a bit redundant.

Small coaster Saturnus in Lerwick with a cargo of tanks, as seen from the Esplanade. I managed to find another photo of Saturnus, but no further information.

Fishing boat in Lerwick, with The Grand Hotel in the background.

Fishing boat Wavecrest.

I assume this ship was involved in offshore oil exploration.
My grandfather would probably have gotten a kick out of the thought that I would be scanning his slides some 32 years after he passed away. It certainly occurs to me that he was probably the last person to touch the actual slides before I pulled them out to put them into the scanning guide.

Friday, 9 December 2016

Christmas Lights Across Canada

This week saw the launch of the 32nd Christmas Lights Across Canada, with the official event happening on Parliament Hill on Wednesday night. I missed the show the first night because they only ran it once, but last night a flight delay made it possible to show up for the 5:30pm show on Parliament Hill. This audio-visual animated show is projected onto the face of the Parliament Buildings and Peace Tower, and lasts about 13 minutes. The first show is at 5:30pm, and it repeats until 11:00pm. 

Last night featured light snow, and between that, downtown protests, and the visit of US Vice President Joe Biden, the crowd at 5:30 was minimal. It was well worth the long walk to find a taxi afterwards. 






The light snow probably added to the experience by making the light trails visible.
These shots were taken hand-held at ISO 3200 with a small mirrorless camera, so the images are rather grainy to say the least - but at least you can't tell at the size shown here.

Saturday, 3 December 2016

Ships and ship breaking in Liverpool, NS. (UPDATED)

This weekend I had the opportunity to spend some time in my home town of Liverpool, Nova Scotia, and of course I had to check out the progress being made in breaking up former HMC Ships PROTECTEUR, ALGONQUIN, and IROQUOIS. All three ships are currently residents of the Port Mersey Commercial Park, the former Bowater Mersey Paper Company property and wharves.

I arrived late on Friday afternoon, just in time to catch the setting sun illuminating what little remains of PROTECTEUR. 

Hulk of former HMCS PROTECTEUR.
PROTECTEUR started off on the Brooklyn side of the wharf where ALGONQUIN and IROQUOIS are now, but was moved around prior to the latter's arrival. Her bridge and hangar superstructures were removed some time ago, and they have started to break her up below deck level as can be seen near the stern in the image above. An area is being prepared ashore, and once the ship is broken down closer to the waterline, the remains will be hauled ashore.

Correction: I am informed that due to the limited width of this side of the wharf, demolition work can't practically continue afloat, and they intend to haul the ship ashore as she appears here. This makes sense, as during the summer that I worked that wharf, the only ship we loaded on that side was one of the Gorthon boats, which was roll-on/roll-off via vacuum forklifts and a side mounted elevator.

If you look closely at the bow just above the current waterline, it appears as if they have already cut a patch straight through the hull where a chain or cable has already been passed through - this will presumably be used to haul the remains out of the water. 

Similar methodology was used to break up the former HMC Ships GATINEAU and TERRA NOVA in Pictou, NS, several years earlier:

Ex-GATINEAU (left) and ex-TERRA NOVA (right) in Pictou, NS, in December, 2009.
As an aside, you can tell the difference between the two ships because ex-TERRA NOVA had her grey paint extended down to the waterline, and a fake hull number added to the bow (now covered up with slightly darker grey paint), for her appearance in the movie "K19 - The Widowmaker". The painted black waterline had made it too obvious that she was light in the water from being stripped of equipment and fuel.

As seen in October 2010, the cut down hulls of ex-TERRA NOVA (back) and ex-GATINEAU (foreground) in Pictou for breaking up.
Some time later both ships had been broken up almost down to the waterline, and they were then hauled into an excavated basin on the shore for the work to be completed.

 ALGONQUIN has been in Liverpool for some time, but work has focused on PROTECTEUR, and there is little sign on ALGONQUIN's exterior of any work being done.

IROQUOIS is the new arrival, having only left Halifax on November 24th.

Ex-IROQUOIS departing Halifax in the rain on November 24th.
I once again sent my father on assignment to capture her arrival the next day. 

Atlantic Spruce towing ex-IROQUOIS past Moose Harbour in Liverpool Harbour, with Atlantic Hemlock steering from the stern.

Taken from the other side of the harbour in Brooklyn, ex-IROQUOIS rounds the breakwater.

Atlantic Hemlock eases ex-IROQUOIS backwards into her berth rafted alongside ex-ALGONQUIN.
It was getting dark when I finally made it over to Brooklyn on Friday evening.

Ex-ALGONQUIN (left) and ex-IROQUOIS (right) alongside at Port Mersey.
I felt it necessary to go back the next day during daylight.
As luck would have it, CCGS Edward Cornwallis was also paying a visit to Liverpool during my visit.

I first got a shot of her from the Liverpool side, with the Coffin Island lighthouse in the background.

This shot is from the Brooklyn side of the harbour, from the breakwater.
Coincidentally, I got almost the exact same shot of Edward Cornwallis in Halifax back on November 21st just after sunrise.

CCGS Edward Cornwallis in Halifax.