Part 2 of my story and the associated photography from my voyage into Canada's north in HMCS Margaret Brooke for three weeks in August 2022 is featured in the January issue of Warships IFR magazine. 

My Margaret Brooke story is being spread across four issues - December, January, February, and March.

Already on shelves in the UK, the January issue should appear in Canada in the coming weeks, and the cover looks like this:

Atlantic News carries the magazine, although the supply chain currently seems to be running behind with the magazine on the shelf usually a month or two old. Chapters also used to carry the magazine (and I assume they still do).

Final Voyage of CCGS Hudson

Commissioned in 1964 as Canadian Survey Ship (CSS) Hudson, she was the first dedicated hydrographic and oceanographic vessel built for Canada and served the Canadian Oceanographic Service until 1996 when she was transferred to the Canadian Coast Guard fleet to become CCGS Hudson. I have photographed this ship many times over the last 25 or so years.

Hudson transiting the narrows of Halifax Harbour at sunrise in March 2007.

A scan from film, probably in either the late 1990s or early 2000s.

Hudson returning from sea in April 2016.

Hudson in July 2021, fresh out of refit and looking like new.

Despite a recent refit that was intended to extend the ship's life until replacements could come online later in this decade, one of the ship's two electric motors that drive the ship suffered a catastrophic failure and has been deemed not worth repairing. The ship will therefore be retired and returned from St. John's, NL, to Halifax on her one remaining motor on what was her final voyage under her own power.

I managed to catch her return from the Macdonald Bridge this past Monday, January 24. She was escorted for at least a portion of her voyage by CCGS Sir William Alexander, who preceded Hudson and saluted the latter using her firefighting monitors, and the lifeboat Sambro and an inflatable also escorted her into the harbour.

 

Sir William Alexander showing off her firefighting monitors.

The first view of Hudson from the bridge.

Sir William Alexander leading Hudson.

Sir William Alexander leading Hudson.

CCGS Sir William Alexander.

Hudson with the escorting RHIB and lifeboat.

Hudson about to pass under the bridge.

Lifeboat Sambro.

With Hudson now gone, the Canadian Coast Guard will have a large gap in their research fleet until her replacement comes online.

For more coverage of Hudson's return, see Mac Mackay's Shipfax blog.

Magdalen Islands

Located north-east of Prince Edward Island, the Magdalen Islands (or Les Iles de la Madeleine in local parlance) are a mere 5 hours away from Souris, PEI, by ferry, or they can also be visited by plane via the small airport. In our case, the ferry was the C.T.M.A Madeleine, and the trip was smooth and uneventful. 

C.T.M.A. Madeleine arriving in Souris, PEI. Madeleine ran like clockwork during our visit, making two round trips per day with one-hour turn-arounds between voyages at each of Souris and Cap-aux-Meules. She frequently appears in the background of my vacation photos.

Lying off the primary port of Cap-aux-Meules on the central Grindstone Island, Entry Island (or Isle d'Entree) is an imposing feature that is visible from at least some point on all the other main islands. Most of the islands have both French and anglicized names, of which I use a mixture of both here. 

An imposing Entry Island silhouetted against the late afternoon sun.

Sailboat approaching Entry Island on sun reflecting waters. 

Rolling hills of green sitting on the sandstone cliffs of Entry Island.

We booked a small cottage near the beach in nearby La Martinique, and despite all the vehicles leaving the ferry it was a short and easy trip to get there from Cap-aux-Meules. La Martinique proved to be a good central location for our travels, and provided easy access for me to several good settings for sunrise and sunset photos. 

Sunset on our first evening from L'Etang-du-Nord on Grindstone Island. There may also have been ice cream.

Dusk in L'Etang-du-Nord.

Sunrise from Parc de Gros Cap.

Sunrise from near Portage-du-Cap on Havre Aubert Island. Entry Island is on the horizon to the right.

Sunrise over Anse Firmin from Cape Alright on Ile-du-Havre-aux-Maisons. 

Sunset in L'Etang-du-Nord harbour.

As a part of the Province of Quebec, the islands are predominantly French-speaking, although the island to the far north-east, named Old Harry, has English roots. Despite their French background, many of the residents speak at least some English, and with those who don't, the remainder of my high school French was sufficient in most cases to at least order food at the many restaurants. In our experience, the residents were all very friendly.

The archipelago consists primarily of islands of sandstone bedrock sitting on a salt dome, with dune beaches connecting most of the major islands. There is therefore no shortage of beaches.

Utility poles running along the dune beach between Grindstone and Havre Aubert islands.

Entry Island as seen from Sandy Hook beach on the southern side of Havre Aubert Island. 

L'Hopital Beach in Fatima on Grindstone Island.

Speaking of the salt dome, the islands have been home to a salt mine since the 1980s. I would recommend giving the visitor's centre a miss, however - pricey admission for little payoff.

Loading wharf at the Canadian Salt Company mine on western end of Old Harry.

In other locations, the sandstone bedrock is much more obvious. I expected the Magdalens to be a sting of flat sand bars, but they have their share of cliffs and hills.

Waves crash into the sandstone cliffs near L'Etang-du-Nord.

Cliffs ring the shore along Anse Firmin, as seen from Cape Alright.

For the photographer, there are also a number of scenic lighthouses.

Lighthouse of L'Anse-a-la-Cabane along the southern shore of Havre Aubert.

Lighthouse at Cape Alright at sunrise.

I also took a few opportunities to photograph some of the local wildlife.

Sandpiper.

From asking on Twitter, apparently this is a Semipalmated plover.

Cormorant colony at Cape Alright.

Cormorant flying alongside the ferry on our departure from Cap-aux-Meules.

Active lifestyle aficionados seem to enjoy the summer in the Magdalens. Although packed with cars and other vehicles, many of the cars carried bike racks, and some of the passengers actually arrived at the ferry on their bikes. The islands are compact enough that it is perfectly viable to see them entirely via bicycle, and although their are hills, most of the roads are relatively flat. Others come to the Magdalens by boat, or otherwise for the windsurfing and kite surfing opportunities. 

Kite surfing between the barrier dunes just east of Havre Aubert island.

Kayaking braving the surf at L'Hopital Beach on Grindstone island.

Being the boat and ship nerd that I am, there were plenty of opportunities for me to photograph the boats in the various fishing ports spread throughout the islands. 

Fishing boat returning to L'Etang-du-Nord at dusk. The wreck in the background is apparently a floating dry dock that broke its tow and ran aground just outside the harbour - regrettably, I couldn't get closer than this for photos.

Fishing boat at La Grave on Havre Aubert Island.

Fishing boats and other vessels, including C.T.M.A Voyageur, and the formerly Nova Scotia-based tug Spanish Mist, in Cap-aux-Meules.

Sunset in L'Etang-du-Nord harbour.

After several thoroughly enjoyable days in the Magdalens, our time was at an end, and the day after the last image above we had to make our way to the ferry terminal early the next morning. Although dark and cloudy that morning, I found the lighting to be supremely interesting from the ferry.

Entry Island seen from the deck of C.T.M.A Madeleine.

Entry Island seen from the deck of C.T.M.A Madeleine.

Crepuscular rays filtered through the clouds over the Gulf of St. Lawrence.

Before we knew it, we were back in Souris.

After another uneventful ferry trip back to Souris, we made it back to our home in Dartmouth before evening.

The link to my complete image gallery is here.